Fashion Industry Declares 'Woke' No Longer in Vogue: NYT Essay Sparks Debate

The fashion world, long seen as a bastion of progressive ideals and minimalist aesthetics, appears to be embracing a new era—one that’s decidedly less "woke" and more opulent. A New York Times opinion piece by journalist Amy Odell suggests that the industry may have "given up" on its socially and environmentally conscious ways, signaling a broader cultural shift.

Odell opines that while the motivations behind "woke" fashion were often sincere, the practical and aesthetic challenges of embedding diversity, equity, and sustainability into luxury designs may have proven too steep. And just like that, the industry seems to have pivoted back to its roots: indulgence and extravagance. "Now that all seems to be over, and maybe that's OK," she remarks in her essay. Given the fashion world's tendency to set the tone for broader cultural trends, this move feels like more than just a wardrobe change.

Interestingly, conservative women, often sidelined by the high-fashion world, are now finding themselves in the spotlight. LVMH, the powerhouse behind brands like Dior and Givenchy, created custom looks for Ivanka Trump during her father’s inauguration, signaling a shift toward engaging with figures outside the progressive sphere. Similarly, Oscar de la Renta, known for dressing first ladies of all political stripes, showcased its designs for Ivanka Trump and Second Lady Usha Vance on social media—moves that feel like olive branches to an audience once deemed unfashionable.

Contrast that with the chilly reception Melania Trump received during her husband’s first term, when several designers publicly declined to dress her. Odell points out that brands like Dolce & Gabbana and Carolina Herrera, who did take the leap, haven't suffered for it. In fact, Adam Lippes, who designed Melania Trump’s 2025 inaugural look, reportedly enjoyed a sales bump afterward. It’s a reminder that fashion, at its core, is about business as much as artistry.

Meanwhile, not all political endorsements have landed well. Vogue’s glowing coverage of Vice President Kamala Harris, including a cover labeling her the "candidate for our times," appears to have backfired, with Odell noting it may have made the Democrats seem out of touch. It’s a rare misstep for a publication that has long been the cultural zeitgeist’s north star.

As the fashion pendulum swings back toward indulgence and away from "woke" values, the question arises: is this a fleeting trend or a sign of a deeper cultural recalibration? For now, the industry seems content to revel in its unapologetically lavish present while leaving its socially conscious past behind—at least for the moment.